Sitting at the Saldanha bus stop in my shorts I look both stupid and American. Shifting on the metal bench I cross and uncross my legs. Mind you I am not cold. But this is Portugal and the air temperature is 22 C or 72 F. At this temperature mature men like myself in Portugal do not wear shorts. The wearing of long pants is not a law, but it's close. Sittinghere Iam an awkward thing, a crime against social norms. And I am getting raised eyebrows by the short men walking past men on their way to offices or construction sites.
I am amused by and at the same time self-consciousness as I catch their curious glances. Part of me wants to stand up and explain my fashion choice, while another part wants to fade away back into the bus stop. Soitgoes.
Heading out at 0930, I arrived at this bus stop to find it empty. The lack of other passengers is a surprise. I mean I am the only person waiting for the bright yellow Carris bus #738, a normally popular bus that will take me down to the Tejo River in relatively short order. The sun keeps trying to peek through on this overcast morning but so far it has not succeeded.
When the bus arrives, I board and find only four passengers including myself seated for this run. Chucking to myself I am thinking that if I were getting on a bus in the USA today the ridership would be very similar but for different reasons. Here in Lisboa I am boarding the 738 after rush hour and people trying to get in on time have already come and departed.In the US it is Friday before the last holiday of summer and if people haven’t left for a four-day holiday yet, they will be departing this morning. Portugal like most of Europe celebrates May Day but not Labor Day. This is just a Friday, not a holiday Friday.
No matter what the weather is like summer is over in the US as of Tuesday. Kids will be back in school and adults will be back at work. Crane operators and lawyers will be in place where they belong raising I-beams or objections. There is no similar demarcation here at this point save maybe for the paucity of North American tourists especially college age ones.
Oh how I remember Labor Day weekend. Here is an old piece I wrote about it. It is about five years old.
OCEAN CITY LABOR DAY 1977
How I wish I was in Ocean City this holiday weekend. Labor Day would be hot and steamy. The boardwalk would be crowded with people jostling each other as they walked whatever distance they chose. This could be it from 12th Street to 4th Street or from 7th Street to 10th St. The smells of Johnson’s popcorn, Mack and Manco’s pizza and the boardwalk creosote would mingle all together as they strolled.
And there I would be behind a shiny aluminum counter. Wearing a T-shirt that said Zap, I would dispense Coca-Cola or soft serve ice cream, or hot J & J pretzels or frozen novelty treats. All day until about 430, business was steady. Large twin twist chocolate ice cream cones would be dispensed covered with nuts and sprinkles to begging seven-year-olds.
Come 430 the summer will be over. Summer rentals on those cottages expired.From pots and pans to bathing suits and pillowcases, cars were packed. Dads in sweaty short sleeve brown shirts would pilottheir big assed Chevrolet back up to Upper Darby and points west. As the evening wore on the foot traffic thinned out on the boards. Kurly Kustard would close early because Ocean City would be a ghost town by 9 pm.
With very few people stopping by, I could clean up and close the store. Between emptying out the salt tray beneath the pretzel baking machine, tearing down the soft serve units and sanitizing them, I would look out at the Atlantic. The mighty Atlantic was so impressive even when it was calm.
There was nothing better than the salt air. My favorite thing to do waslie in the sun reading cheap paperback copies of classic literature. My heart was full of lust when I saw the girls in their skimpy bathing suits. I so loved the humidity that turned a feather pillow into a rock over three months. Kind of liked the beer at Somers Point late at night, too.
The summer of youth is fast disappearing. I would advise the young to do what I would do if I were young again. Drink some beer, read some Shakespeare, get to know a romantic companion, smoke some weed, and watch the sun go down over the water. Feel the warmth of the day and then let it fade away as night comes on.
Oh yeah and I miss the end of summer countdown on WMMR. I mean they played the Clash and broadcast the Dead's Englishtown concert.
For the first time in a week, I felt comfortable raising the metal blind in the room I write in. Opening the window feltpleasant. Lisboa’s heat has backedoff, so opening up the writing room to sunlight andoutside air isokay. As I looked at the clear sunny day outside Ipondered the one true sentence I should begin my writing with.
Initially, based on a friend miscalculating the time zone differences between us resulting in a 6:30 am call I had thought to begin with something like, ‘When you are 27 a phone call late, late at night or early, early in the morning means somebody is drunk and wants totalk. Well,thator they need bail money. When you are in your late sixties a phone call late, late at night or early, early in the morning usuallymeanssomething heavier, something darker.You pick up those calls slowly and with trembling hands.’
I kicked that idea around for an hour or two andcouldn't figure out howto write it without depressing anyone readingit. Just thinking about it sent meback to all those awful phone callsI received over the years.We have all answered our share of dark telephones. My headis not in place today to review all those painful memories. On a sunny day like this I just can't go to thatspace. However, it isa worthwhile opening and I may wellreturn to it on another day, perhaps in the deep dreary midwinter.
Next I thought about writing about how when reading something a really smart person has written all my fears about intellectual inadequacy resurface. The genesis ofthis was my readingof Heather Cox Richardson's latest post. https://open.substack.com/pub/heathercoxrichardson/p/august-18-2024?r=6yy7a&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email Herarticle detailed the historyof what led to the passage of the 19th Amendment. Thisamendment granted women the right to vote in all governmental elections in this country. I should have known those facts, or at least once upon a time I should have known those facts. Truth be told I am not sure I ever did and that is on me. After a lifetime of reading legal documents for a living I became an executivesummary reader. On more than one occasion I have missed the important bits because of it.
Nope, I decided I didn’t need to tear my psyche down stone by stone and show it to the world.Perhaps the way to go would be to discuss the fact that what we have been taught is not the actual story. Or maybe something about what you seedepends on where you stand relative to the action.
I wouldsay nothingnovelbylaying out how our prepackaged educationalcurriculum has impacted Americans' perception of historical events. Often our views of history are skewed by the narratives that make us theheroes in what is best described as an American myth. The 'facts' read to us in school,and memorized by us,tend to highlight certain American white malenarratives. However, they often omit a look at the broader truths and the real and valid interests of all the parties involved. This curated perspective clearlyimpacts how we interpret eventsand learn from them. But I gave up on this because itwas too damnarduous to think about such matters so early in the week.
In the alternative I could get back to my Jean Shepherd roots and write something real but truly absurd. Imean I could talk about how the sound of an unfortunate recent incident of 2 am flatulence on the part of someone I know woke his wife up and set her toscreaming. Based on the vibrato sound of the errant butt burp this poor woman thought bees and other bugswere invading the couple's bedroom. She set about screaming and thrashing to ward them off. When informed about what had actually happened the long suffering woman was truly peeved. But that would be gross andpedestrian. And anyway, the woman would deny it ever happened.
Oh well I am justgoing to hang it up for the day because I have laundry to fold and a walk to take. Tomorrow I will start earlier with a clearer mind.Sometimeswe need to recharge and refocus.
Sometimes, just sometimes, the heat brings about a moment (or two) that delights. Last night it wastoo hot for us tocook in ourapartment. The daytime temperaturereached 100 F (almost 38 C). At first even the thought of warm food seemed unappetizing. We decided togoout.
Sushi was on our minds until I considered the cost of therestaurantwe wereconsidering. Nope, toomuch. But the items this particular place carried notably gyozas and bao buns sparked Francie’smemory. She had heard of a place up north on the subway that diddelicious dim sum.The name of the place was Dafu near the Alvalade metro stop.
At itsmost extreme,the temperature yesterday wasbroiling. However, by the time we set out at 7:15 (19:15) it had droppedinto the mid 80s and a breeze had kicked up. Two quickrides on the subway and a five-minute walk and we were at Dafu. We grabbed one of the two outside tables.
Upon arriving at Dafu, we were immediately struck by the inviting aroma of freshly steamed buns and savory spices wafting through the air. The modest yet charming decor exuded a cozy, authentic vibe that made us feel that the promise ofdeliciousdim sum might befulfilled.Even though the heat had slowed everyone's energy level, the faces of patrons and staff alike showed pleasant smiles.
We had a sampler of steamedgyoza.Also, we ordered a meat bao bun and some carrot and shrimp dumplings. Sitting out at our table on the street we watched people walk by with their dogsand let the wind blow ourhair about. Cold beer wasa welcome addition to the meal.
The steamed gyoza had juicy fillings with wonderful flavors. The shrimp and carrot dumplings were served in adelicious broth that added just the right touch. The meat bao bun was soft and pillowy, and melted in our mouths, leavingour palates pleased and happy.A nightout wasa really, really goodchoice last night.
On the way back to the metro we passed three gelado places. I resisted each one but at the fourth one my willpower collapsed. The place was packed with parents, kids and grandparentswho were enjoyinga cooling treat on a warm night. It only took a moment and there I was eating some of the richest chocolate ice cream out of a cut standing out on thestreets ofLisboa at twilight. Willpower sometimes failswhen faced with with the combination of heat and ice cream.
I tell you there is no shame insurrenderingoccasionally. Like the heat it sometimes brings delight.
In summer’s fading glory, there issublime joy.Patches of once vibrant butnow slightly dusky flowers abound.Breathe deep and you willfeel both infinite and finitetime. The bloomsof the flowers stilldraw the eye fromafar. Upon closer inspection even the untrained eye can see the tints of age have started toscar. Bright red, yellow and purple flowers abound shouting out to bees and bugs and humankind "I am here, I am alive for this glorious moment." They roar singing, "Let me fill you heart."But the green stems supporting them grow straw-like and burnt/brittle at the edges.
As we surveythis sceneit evokes memories of past summers spent in fields of wildflowers, in thelush green woods of the north, along themighty oceans east and west where the air wasfilled with the laughter of friends. Those memories hint at the bittersweet passage of time, where beauty is fleeting yet profoundly impactful. Each flower, in its last burst of color, whispers stories of long, sun-drenched daysand the warmththat lingers in our hearts.
The glory of the flower takes us away fromafinite moment into an eternity of deliciousjoy. I would call these moments the time of ripepeaches. As the liquid from that soft fleshy fruit drizzles down after youconsume a mouthful the sweetness is fully satisfying, almost as sensual asan intensesex. Thesticky joy of the sweet taste take us beyond this mortal space into a moment of eternity.
This summer's kingdom will soon come fallingdown. Look my friend, you can see it in thesilvering leaves of thetrees. Thisyear’s time of short sleeves, short pants and water play will be donesoon. The beaches where we soughtretreat,seeking relief fromthe heat, willshortlybe cold and desolate places. But when you see flowers full and exploding you suspend the reality of time and age and fragility. The tallgrass blowing back and forthwith a full beardslow the clock down for a minute so that its tick-tock-tick cannot even beperceived. The thumping of the human heart is lost in the background.
The coming shift from summer to autumn will bring with it a sense of melancholy and nostalgia, as these vibrant hues of summer give way to fall's muted tones. We willexperience bittersweetbeauty watching the world transform, a reminderof the impermanence of all things.But we shouldappreciate the fleeting moments of warmth and joy,making sunlit days memories all the more precious.
In the summerwarmth of late August,I will wrap my warped and worried frame in the joyful colors of thespectrum. Iwillsurrender to the bird song and the rhythmic hymn of bees’ wings. They will seduce me and hypnotize me into believing this will be forever. Let us celebrate this time of sweet tastes andperfume-like smells.Let us revel in the sounds ofthe wild world at work, the rustling of grass and the buzzing of bees.Letthe soft grass be our bed. Letour eyes be awashin the royal purple of lavender as time winds down on this short eternity.
The morning is beautiful on this day. Some clouds are out but the sun is still shining. The air is still cool and there is a breeze that makes the day promising. With such an idealmorning a walk, a good long walk is required.
Took the metro up four stops to start my walk. Picked the east side of the street to head home on. The sun will be hidden behind those high rises until noon. Needed to get up to pace so some music was in order. Took out my hearing aids and put them in their case. Retrieved my air pods and jammed them in my ears. Kicked up some Richard Thompson. Thompson's strong guitar playing and storytelling lyrics always set the perfect tone for a morning walk.
The flow of songs was 1952 Vincent Black Lightning, I Misunderstood, I Feel So Good, Keep Your Distance, King of Bohemia and Beeswing. Didn’t take long with this as my cadence generator to get my pace up to my standard of 3 mph. Walked a mile and a half smiling most of the way. Thompson's music has a way of making every step feel connected to the world around me. His songs are the rightcompanions for a morning like this, full of promise and quiet beauty.
Whenever I have an extended listen to Richard Thompson’s music I am always puzzled. I kid you not I believe he is one of the greatest guitarists of the rock era. More importantly his lyrics are sharp, sly, full of depth and insight and damn catchy to boot. So why is he not one of the best-selling and most famous singer-songwriters ever?
From Leif and Liegewith Fairport Convention to Shoot Out the Lights with his ex-wife Linda and beyond he has consistently created excellent songs. Many,many other artists have covered his work. One of my favorites is Linda Ronstadt’s cover of King of Bohemia. Perhaps it is because his songs are too smart to be crafted into a “hit”. Maybe it is because he is a Muslim. Possibly it is because his voice is not his strongest instrument although it has improved over the years. I don’t know why he isn’t a star but if you give him a chance he will be on your Apple Music or Spotify playlistsregularly.
Here is a song that I love because of the lyrics. Enjoy. It is let us give Richard Thompson a chance day.
Monday, the first day of thisnewweek has arrived. Sunlightfloods in and the living roomis growingwarmer.
To combat this day's coming heat,I will rolldown the living room's exterior metal blinds and block out the sunlight intotal. I will leave them down until late afternoon. I have opened up the same metal blinds on the back side of the apartment whichface the large neighborhood courtyard. This common space stays cooluntil noon. Having no air conditioning I must manage the heat with the tools available to me.
As the sun burns fiercely back in the courtyard in the early afternoon, I will roll down the metal covers. And later when the temperaturedrops 25 F degrees, and the strong breezes accompanying it come at twilight, I will throw up all the shades and open all thewindows. I will let the cooling wind blow through thisplace. Every time I do this I hearLetthe Wind Carry Meplay in my head.
Moving to a place where I don't control the interiorweather(my apartment has no air andno heat), I have had to come to terms with the need to adjust my behaviors to the rise and fall of the sun. This means that I shop in the morning long before the sun hitsitszenith. Ivisit the breakfast/brunch cafe when it opens at 8 or 9 in the morning and not at noon.When the afternoon comes I settle into a cool dark space and read orwatch a little television. As a result of my move to this golden country, I am now more attuned to the natural rhythms of the day. I rise relatively early,prioritizing errands andconducting my activities in the cooler hoursof either the morning or the evening.
These changes haveadded disciplineand rhythm to my daily routine. I've become more mindful of the natural cycles of the day. Also, I have come to embrace the quiet, reflective moments that come with avoiding the afternoon heat.Ofttimes you will find me typing things like this midafternoon in a room dark save for the glow of the computer monitor's light. I alsoappreciate the simple pleasures of life, like the refreshing breeze at twilight and the tranquility of the early morning.
At first I resisted adapting to the heat,but therewas little choice but to submit. The above adjustments havebrought a certain mindfulnessto my daily routine.You might say I have aligned my activities with the natural flow of the day. One has to learn to live in the world we are given.